Lakshadweep Islands - No Worries "Atoll"

The coral islands of Lakshadweep lie off the west coast of India and in the Arabian sea (approximately 400 kms west of Kochi - Kerala). In all there are about 30 islands of which 10 are inhabited. I had visited Lakshadweep about 17 years before writing this review and by ship (islands of Kavaratti, Minicoy and Kalpeni) so it was interesting to go back 17 years later to see the development and progress. And it was amazing to see how much it was!

My journey by flight this time took me to Agatti and then onward by boat to Bangaram where I spent 3 nights each. The airstrip of Agatti lies on the south side of the Agatti island making for a spectacular landing. Just before landing one also sees the island of Kalpitti a small uninhabited islet just south of Agatti. Upon landing we made our way through Agatti to the western jetty to catch our boat transfer to Bangaram. Made famous in 2024 when PM Modi visited , the IHCL (Taj / Tata ) group runs the Coral pearl resort and annexed to it the earlier Bangaram island resort making it all one property. 

Bangaram Island:

Bangaram is literally a pearl shaped island in the middle of the ocean. White coral sands and shades of crystal clear water greet you. As you step foot on the island, you are immediately greeting by an air of calmness and a sense of tranquil. Bangaram has an approximately 1 kms sandy beach end to end that kisses the lagoon. The lagoon itself is not very deep and the waters are crystal clear, and you can spot schools of fish , corals, seaweed and other marine life swimming just below you. The views from Bangaram are simply amazing. With the Island of Parali and Thinnakara to the east and Agatti to the far south, the sunrise and sunset are an out of the world experience. A walk on the shore in the early mornings , greets you with the occasional chirp of birds, a few fisherman bait fishing along the beach, and crustaceans skimping across the sands. As the day progresses you can also see the water changing its shades and colors giving rise to various hues.  The island is so small, one can literally walk end to end in 10 mins. Toward the back of the island is the Helipad and touching it is another beach. Since that is on the western side, you can catch sunsets there. As beautiful and isolated as the beach is, its safer to stick to the lagoon as the tides are calmer and there is a lifeguard on duty. Sunset is late (around 7 pm) when we went in May

Getting to Bangaram:

Bangaram can be reached by an hour’s boat transfer from Agatti. The boat first leaves the shallow waters of Agatti to then make its way into the deep sea where you can spot Dolphins, giant turtles and other marine life.

Staying at Bangaram:

As mentioned earlier , there is only property on the tiny island I.e. IHCL Seleqtions Coral Pearl and Bangaram Island resort so you can expect exclusivity. Due to the highly ecologically sensitive nature of the islands, the Government restricts the number of tourists visiting and hence the accommodations as well. Also, due to the unpredictable tides and weather, properties may or may not operate or might shut early etc. Its important to confirm your dates and book early. Activities on Bangaram include Kayaking, glass boat ride, and diving organized by the Resort itself. There are no private tour operators on the island. The beach at Bangaram is absolutely fantastic. The lagoon waters are calm making for ideal conditions to wade or swim. The lagoon is also pretty big and at the very least you can sit on a deck chair and gaze at this sight for hours. Take a walk along the the circumference of the island for beautiful views of the lagoon and unique beaches along each side. From the southside Agatti can be seen in the distance, toward the east you can see Thinnakara and Parali islands. 

Agatti Island:

Agatti island can be best described as a very small island village or town. Still developing for tourism there are a few hotels and resorts spread across the island. Some of the more notable ones include SeaShells resort, Turtle Nest and Agatti Island beach resort. Most people consider Agatti as a stopover point on their way to other destinations like Kavaratti or Bangaram but Agatti can pack a agenda for 2 or perhaps 3 days. Agatti's beaches are very beautiful as it boasts a huge lagoon area , although the sand / beach area is narrow unlike Bangaram. 

Toward the east of the island is the Eastern Jetty which serves as a loading / unloading dock for supplies and materials coming from the mainland. A long bridge connects to the jetty. 

Towards the north of the island is the lighthouse and Chalakad beach (which as i mentioned is crowded but more importantly is quite filled with Thrash). A couple of restuarants operate in that area but they were closed when we visited. Agatti is well connected by mobile operators and 4G is widely available on the island by operators such as Vodafone and Airtel. 

Eating:

There weren't too many joints serving local fare. Most restaurants were either closed, un-operational or weren’t serving local fare. Maybe it was also because it was very close to season end, Not sure. However, based on what I heard around , Coral Reef Kitchen Mubarak Hotel, Cucumber City, and Andhan are decent places to eat. Most resorts also offer limited option buffets , which if you ask me is a good bet if you are unable to find food elsewhere.  Kalmaas (Tuna Curry and Rice) is a local favorite along with Phirni for sweets. We had an awesome Tuna Fish Curry rice at Coral Reef Kitchen on the airport road and close to our resort Seashells. Absolutely local fare and authentic. Thali comprised of Rice, Fish curry, Fish fry and veggies along with Papad. Would highly recommend this.

Mubarak is good for chinese and fast food items (Both veg and non veg) located on the eastern side. Not a great place to sit and eat, so would recommend taking a parcel from here.

Activities:

Sea Soul is a travel agency along the airport road that offers activities within Agatti as well as tours to other islands. The rates are cheaper than what one can get booking out of pocket at resorts so its worth the offer. Definitely do the Kalpitti island visit which typically is packaged in a glass boat so coral reef , marine life and turtle watching is also included which is spectacular. Kalpitti is a small isle at the south of Agatti. A narrow channel separates both islands so the views from Kalpitti are amazing.

Getting Around:

highly recommend getting a bike on hire to go around Agatti. Taxis are mostly used for ferrying people to / from the airport and shorter distances are best covered by a two wheeler. Two wheelers can be booked from the resort or rental agencies. There are no food delivery apps or taxi apps available on the island.

Shopping at Agatti:

Food stuff (Fish pickle and Tuna pickle) is famous- supermarkets are the best place for this. 

Souvenirs and Trinkets - Mehzan art and crafts for souvenirs , trinkets , and handicrafts . Located to the east side near the Ferry terminal. Buy from local shops and support local artisans even for coconut shell handicrafts and lacquer items.

Poshak - for Lakshadweep themed tees / shorts.

Getting to Lakshadweep

Lakshadweep can be reached by an hour fifteen flight from Kochi, Bangalore or Goa. There are daily flights that operate from these destinations during the season which is October to May.  Cordelia cruises also runs cruise ships from Kochi and Mumbai to the islands during the season.

Weather

We visited in the month of May, and the weather was pretty hot and humid overall, although there were occasional showers and rain that cooled the place a bit and there were also quite a few spells of cloud cover. However due to the high humidity its best to travel and dress light. Its difficult to step outdoors during the peak day time I.e. 11 to approx 3 pm due to the intense sun. But given the late sunset at approximately 7 pm, people are seen enjoying the beach and lagoon till around that time in the evening.

Things to be aware of:

Agatti is a developing place , so while basic provisions are available any specific provisions for babies / infants like food, diapers or medications will need to be carried. 

There are a couple of supermarkets and pharmacies available which are decently stocked in the centre (near the Panchayat ground area). 

Pls minimize use of plastic . One can already see the island buckling under pressure of thrash and plastic especially since the advent of tourism a few years ago. 

Everything shuts in the afternoon between 1-4 pm (eateries, shops etc.) . So you need to plan accordingly. 

Respect the local culture which is largely Islamic. So dress modestly, strictly no consumption or sale of liquor on the island. People are generally friendly and polite and love to help. 

Do not carry back Corals. They will be checked and confiscated at the airport. 

Island weather can be very unpredictable especially on the months of October and May during change of seasons , so keep plans flexible and be prepared for short notice changes.

Connectivity in the far off islands like Bangaram , Thinnakara can be sparse. Some operators might not have service. Internet is available , but can be flaky at times.