Kazakhstan - A canvass of Culture and Landscapes

The central asian country of Kazakhstan has always been a dream destinations. As a country that has had a history of empires and being along the silk route it is no surprise that its a land filled with abundant culture , history and monuments from the past. It has its own unique Kazakh culture infused with its soviet past and this again varies between various parts of the country due to the varying topography and ethnic groups. Kazakhstan is also a natures paradise with landscapes ranging from the towering Alatau Mountains to the east (often being referred to as Switzerland of Asia), to the Caspian sea coast to the west to the highland deserts and plains of the Altyn Emel plateau in the north and center. My trip to Kazakhstan spanned about a week and covered the southern and eastern parts of the country which was around the cities of Alamty (the commercial capital) in the south, the lake town of Kolsai and Saty located at the foot of the Alatau mountain range and the charyn canyon national park located on the far east close to the Kazakh China border. 

Almaty:

The commercial capital Almaty is well connected to many cities. The flag carrier Air Astana offers good connections and offers  truly good service on board. Landing into Almaty is reminiscent of landing in a valley with towering mountains on one side and the highland plains on the other. It reminded me a lot of landing at the Himalayan city of Kathmandu in Nepal. Almaty is a bustling city and commercial hub. You can expect to find malls , shopping centers and a local market called Green Bazaar for local goods and souvenirs. I was told bargaining at Green Bazaar can offer you good discounts. Almaty also has a bunch of spotting to do.  Malls are upscale with moer expensive branded options for clothes , accessories and other consumer goods. If you are looking for good bragains , then green bazaar and arbat street are good places to shop.

Almaty is a city of various foods and cuisines and Middle Eastern, Italian is quite popular , but there are restaurants that serve the local fare such as Kazakh and Uzbek cuisine. Navat and Turken are couple of recommendations for local cuisine. Horse meat and a dish called Beshbarshsak is the local delicacy.Hotels can be a bit expensive especially the 4 or 5 star hotels so you can book Air BNB or there are many hosts that rent out apartments in the central part of the city.

Language typically is a mix of Kazakh and Russian given the Soviet history. People are also ethnically a mix of Kazakh and Slavics. English isn’t spoken a lot and communication can be a problem . its advisable to download a translator ahead to help with communication .

Issyk Lake

Issyk lake was my person favorite. Much less crowded than Kolsai or Kandai lake and is a clear green lake that offers absolutely stunning views of the Alatau mountains in the backdrop. The walk to the lake from the parking point is also simply amazing. Option of Taxis are also available.  Issyk lake and turgen waterfall is a good day trip. Turgen waterfall needs a demanding 40-50 mins trek up the mountains along a trekking path hence not recommended if with kids or for older people. Carry water as there are no stalls on shops along this forested path. Amazing views available on the way to the falls as you climb up the mountain. The falls itself also called “Bear Falls” is quite impressive. The water falls from a height of around 100 mtrs before getting into a stream.

Shymbulak 

Shymbulak is a ski resort located outside of Almaty . It takes only 45 mins to an hour to reach and a great place to experience snow and ice and a Gondola ride that takes you almost 600 mtrs height from Medeu to Shymbulak.  You have the option of halting at Shymbulak (which is where you get restaurants etc.) or for a few more bucks you could take the ride up another 800 mtrs to station 2 and 3 unto 3200 mtrs ASL. Here you can actually walk in ice and snow and experience the beauty of it all. The Sun rays can be harsh here so carry a lot of Suncream . But also be well cladded with layers as it can get very nippy. Its best to go around 10 am and explore shymbulak till around noon.

Kok Tobe

This place is more of an amusement park and also frequented by the city locals. There are also a few souvenir shops at Kok Tobe. Private Vehicles cannot enter the Kok Tobe area. If you are unto the 1 -2 km long walk up the hill then its free else for a small fee you get transport options up and down. I would recommend taking the Ferris wheel at the top for amazing views of the city and the mountains. This place can get a bit crowded after 5 pm but is also the best time to visit

Kolsai Lakes National Park

Most people do a day trip from Almaty which takes about 14-16 hours in total. However, i would recommend staying at Kolsai to really experience the magic of this region. Getting accommodation isn’t easy because the hotels aren’t listed online so you might have to go via their social media handles or a reference but if you secure accommodation its worth every bit. Many hotels are situated in the nearby village of Saty about 7 kms away but there are 2-3 properties around the lake side. While they are pricier , the obvious advantage is you get walking access to the lake and the stunning views of the lake and mountains in the backdrop. The downside is , you do not have options to eat as you may be more confined to the property.  Kolsai Nomads and Kolsai Lake Town are two such properties. 

Kolsai Lake offers nice boating options. The kolsai lakes is a system of 3 lakes located at various altitudes. Lake 1 is accessible by Road , while lake 2 and 3 are further up the mountains and only accessible by foot on a hiking trail. I was told the distance between lake 1 and 2 is 7 kms and takes about 5-6 hours one way. Its a similar distance and time between lakes 2 and 3. Hence if you are traveling with a children, or aren’t able to walk long distances etc it is advisable to avoid this. There are no shops, eateries or staying options along the hiking trail. Its only campers and camping gear. Since it gets cold and dark early post 5 pm you need to plan ahead. Staying at Kolsai for a couple of days is a good idea.

Kolsai can be warm by day but get very nippy and cold by nights. We visited during October and the temperatures went down to 5 deg Celcius by night. 

There are many stalls serving food and selling small trinkets near the Kolsai lake

So it depends on what suits you. If what you are looking for is peace and tranquility then staying here for a couple of days amidst pure nature is a great idea. 

Kolsai lakes 2 and 3 are further up the mountains from Lake 1. However it is a 4-5 hours trek between lakes and cannot be achieved on the same day to and fro. Hence it is advisable to check weather before starting out, and be prepared with camping gear and paraphernalia in case the weather turns over. Most people do Lake 2 as a dawn to dusk hike while for lake 3 a stop over at Lake 2 for the night is a must. Temperatures at these lakes can go far below that of Kolsai and Lake 1 as they are further up the mountains and into the forests. 

Charyn canyon

Charyn canyon is located about 2 hours from Kolsai or 2.5 hours from Almaty . The canyons are estimated to be 4.5 million years old and a replica of the grand canyons of Arizona. Although smaller in size they are still estimated to be 150 kms long. Great pictures can be taken from atop the canyon plateau.

Kandai Lake

Off the Saty Kolsai road lies a dirt road toward Kandai lake . It takes about 30 mins to reach the base by taxi (basically old soviet era vehicles now used to ply people up and down which is an experience in itself). Kandai lake is certainly one that has a charm of its own With its famed uprooted forest that happened when the lake was formed apparently. It is a unique site to see upside down coniferous trees stem from the lake. There are 2-3 platforms or decks from where amazing pics can be taken. There is no boating or other activities at this lake and requires an enduring walk of around 1.5 kms to reach along a steep hiking trail. It is advisable to take a Taxi from the base which takes up to the walking point so save you another hour or so of walking. The option of a horse ride is also possible. From the walking point there are no horses nor taxis available

All these lakes and sites can be done as a day trip from Almaty , but based on what I spoke to people, it takes about 16 hours in total and can be very rushed and tiring. Thus, if you have the time and bandwidth , it is definitely advisable to spend a couple of nights in the Kolas region to really soak up the beauty and culture of this area. It also gives you  the opportunity to check out all sites at your own time and leisure. Be prepared with woolens and rain wear though cos weather in the mountains can change rapidly and it get really cold at nights and early mornings. 

Travel Tips:
Other than upscale hotels in Almaty, Not many other people including guides speak or understand a lot of English so having a translator on your phone will definitely be in handy. Keep both Russian and Kazakh in handy. 

Respect the local culture and be polite to people around you. Learning a few pleasantries in Kazakh and using them goes a long way

Not many options for Vegetarian or Vegans. it is advisable to carry along packed or ready to eat food in case you are left without options 

Avoid bargaining with locals for transport like Taxi, Horse rides or food stalls or Souveniurs especially in the country side places. They do this as their daily livelihood. 

Exchange currency in the city as opposed to the airport for a better rate. US Dollars are widely accepted along with most other major currencies.

Carry sunscreen and moisturizer due to the sun rays and dryness. Also carry basic medicines for travel and altitude sickness. Didn’t see many pharmacies or clinics outside of Almaty city. 

Almaty doesn’t have a very robust public transport system. Cabs cannot be flagged down so ensure to have an app called “Yandex” which is a ride booking app. The metro is a single line but could come to use depending on where you travel. 

Carry lots of woolens , thermals and warm clothes. Also some rain gear a weather can change very rapidly in the mountains.