Nepal - Abode in the Himalayas !

Nepal

When one thinks of Nepal, its usually the Himalayas that come to mind, and obviously makes Nepal a haven for mountaineers, trekkers and other mountain related sports. However, Nepal has a rich history and culture dating back thousands of years by way of ancient temples, old cities , marketplaces and the like. This trip to Nepal spanned to Nepal and covered both, the mountain sides as well as the towns and historical places. The review would cover 3 places namely the capital Kathmandu, Pokhara and the Nagarkot hill town. In addition of course, there are several other places to visit as well depending on time at hand and budget. 

Kathmandu

The capital city of Nepal lies in a valley surrounded by towering mountains and snow capped peaks. On a clear day I am told one can see as far as the greater Himalayan peaks of Langtang, Gauri Shankar and beyond. The climate is very pleasant all year around due to its altitude and location. The city by way of lacking orderliness in traffic can get haphazard and congested during the morning and evenings so plan accordingly. Also while it is generally safe, avoid venturing out too late at night as the city is quite dark in the evenings and lacks proper lighting.

Eating

the city has loads of eateries and cafes along the streets. There are also quite a pubs if you’d like to indulge in some Kathmandu nightlife. Cuisines range from local thakali to continental fare. Tibetan, Korean, Chinese and Indian are some of the other popular cuisines in Nepal. 

What to see and do

The famous sightseeing spots in KTM include the Buddhist temples of Swambunath and Boudahanath which are definitely worth the visit. Adorning the temple sites are shops selling handicrafts, art, food and much more. Devotees are spotted around the day and evening doing rituals inside and around the temple premises. As this is a holy spot for Buddhists, a lot of shops around the temple’s premises are run by Tibetans selling Tibetan wares , handicrafts , art , other items for Buddhist rituals and the like. At swambunath, if up for it take the 400 steps walk up the hill to the temple, rather than going by road.

Thamel - this is the local marketplace, although I was expecting a little more than what I’ve heard of the place. Here you will find everything from souvenirs, to apparel, to handicrafts, tea and much more. Do bargain , as tourist rates can vary and sometimes vendors quote high to start with. So haggling can help. Most vendors in this area accept only cash so keep cash handy. There are a lot of Chinese and Tibetan restaurants in the Thamel area so lots of variety in terms of food. Pathan durbar square is similar to the Bhaktapur square although its a little smaller in area.  Laid out similarly with the old city surrounding the durbar / city center. 

Staying

There are numerous hotels around Kathmandu to suit all budgets. We stayed at the Taj Vivanta and its mentioned in a separate review. Taj Vivanta offers great views of the city from its rooms and roof top Asian Restaurant called Akari Koko. 

Bhaktapur

Bhaktapur is a must visit when in Nepal and Kathmandu. The old city which is approx 1000 years old takes you back in time to the days of Royalty, courtyards (Durbars) , palaces and temples. The old city has miraculously survived dozens of earthquakes which have plagued Nepal over the centuries which speaks about the expertise of the engineers and architects back then. Though the old city spans around 6 sq kms the area of interest with the main durbar, temples and palace is roughly around 1 sq km and can be completed in about a couple of hours. 

Tips 

Book a guide for about 1000 NPR who will explain the sights to you as you go about the place on foot. If you would like to avoid touts and souvenir shopping make it clear in advance to the guide.  

There are good shopping options for trinkets and souvenirs and cafes within the complex itself, some offering roof top views to give you an aerial view of the old city while you sip on a coffee or indulge in some authentic Newari cuisine

At the end of the trip around sunset soak in the fervor at the durbar square and the gleaming of the suns rays against the temples and palaces around. The hills of Nagarkot surrounding Bhaktapur also make a beautiful site and I am toldd on a clear day , snow / ice clad mountains of the greater Himalayas can also be viewed. 

The hamlet of Nagarkot lies around 30 kms or so from Bhaktapur (which is suburban Kathmandu) and is 

approximately a couple of hours drive from Kathmandu City. As you leave the city of Kathmandu behind, the road stars to take you through winding mountains as you see terraced hill sides, pine forests and small little road side shops or cafes to cater to tourists. Villagers going about their normal lives, and small traditional brick houses adorn the countryside. The unique aspect of Nagarkot is that it offers what one can call a balcony seat view to the greater Himalayan range.  Due to its altitude at around 2000 meters above sea level and perched high above it offers unobstructed spectacular views of the Langtang , Ganesh and manaslu range of Himalayan mountains. At heights of 7500 to 8000 meters , These peaks tower above the middle Himalayan mountains  and the Langtang national park which lie in between making them visible as if they were just across from you, even though they are probably around 200 kms away. To best enjoy and spot the various peaks, equip yourself with a panoramic map of the peaks, a compass and definitely a good camera. On a semi clear to clear day, the peaks of Langtang , Dorje Lakpa, Manaslu and Ganesh I to III are clearly visible. 

Nagarkot

Nagarkot is a place to soak up views of the mountains, enjoy the cool or cold climate and catch a breath of fresh air , some good trekking , exercise and peace of mind. Do not expect sight seeing, fancy restaurants, and shopping etc. as that is quite not the agenda here. A couple of shops and few basic restaurants exist in the main town. Catch some authentic Nepalis cuisine, momos or some fusion of indo - nepali and sino - nepali food. Mandapgiri and gaurishankar hotel are a couple of restaurants we tried offering amazing views of the valley, great food and rustic ambience. 

For the best views, trek up the watch tower which is around a 30-40 mins walk from the Nagarkot town and catch the best views of the mountains from the highest point where there is also a plateau and a cafe (Everest Manila) to catch a cup of Coffee and a snack. You can also take a taxi perhaps , but there’s nothing like a good trek.

Tips

• Due to the topography, fog or rain typically sets in around late morning to early evening. Hence early morning and late evening (5-7 am and 5-7 pm) offer you good views of the mountains.
• Carry warm clothes if traveling during summer and woolens if traveling during winter. Summer temperatures can dip to 8-9 degrees C and 0 or below during winter during the evenings and day time is also quite cool. 
• Chose your hotel wisely. Some hotels though not star hotels offering great amenities are strategically situated to offer mesmerizing views of the mountains from the room or balconies. Hotel Mystik mountain is one such property which offers very good comfort and fantastic views. Club Himalaya offers good comfort although the views are a little obstructed. But it is situated a 10 min walk from the Nagarkot town where you can find a lot of eating options and a couple of superstores for your basic needs. So it all depends on what you’re looking for.
• Stock up on your own supplies, medication etc. as things are hard to find here given that its no more than a small village. 
• People here are very kind , gentle and welcoming. A smile or a greeting goes a long way in making their day.

Pokhara

The city of Pokhara is the second largest city in Nepal by way of urbanization and population but the largest in terms of Area. Scattered across the valley between the Annapurna / Dhaulagiri range of high Himalayan mountains and the lower middle Himalayas, the city is located about 50 kms south of the majestic Annapurna , Dhaulagiri and Himalchuli range of mountains which houses some of the worlds highest peaks namely Annapurna (I to IV), Dhaulagiri , Manaslu and a more locally known peak Macchupucchare (meaning “Fish Tail”). On a clear day one gets brilliant views of all these peaks lofting above the horizon , covered with snow and ice and shimmering in the sunlight from anywhere in the city that's unobstructed. 

Travel:

Pokhara can be reached from KTM via road or air. If the weather is bad do consider traveling by air because in such cases the roads are usually blocked or congested etc. Also if there is a known construction of road its best to avoid it because this could mean longer journeys. Pokhara can be reached via a 25 mins flight from KTM. Several domestic airlines offer regular flights to and fro , and competitively priced. 

Climate

the climate in Pokhara is generally warmer than Kathmandu. Days during summer can be a little warm but mornings and evenings are pleasant. 

For the best views though, visit Sarangkot , a 20 mins drive from Pokhara city and located atop a hill offers bestsellers views of the peaks at sunrise or sunset.  On the other side are views of Pokhara city and the Phewa lake around which the city is ribboned. 

Pokhara is most famed as being a base location for trekkers looking to scale the lofty Himalayan peaks of Annapurna, Dhaulagiri etc. Hence you’d find hundreds of tour operators offering trekking services, trekking options ranging from a 3 day Poon Hill trek to 3 weeks and beyond for Annapurna. There are also lots of shops selling mountaineering and trekking equipment. 

Other than this, there isn’t much sightseeing in Pokhara city other than the Gopteshwar Cave temple (which is an opportunity to see a natural cave that goes about 50-70 mtrs under the ground and you can see Stalactites and Stalagmites). Devi’s falls is ok , although generally both places need better maintenance. 

Shopping and Eating

• Pokhara has a vibrant food and street life. Tons of shops and restaurants located along the Phewa lake. offering options for buying local stuff, like Pashminas, Cashmere, gems, handicrafts like the famed singing bowl and of course Souvenir items.  Cuisine options range from Traditional Nepalis Thakali cuisine to global cuisine like Japanese, Korean, Italian , Tibetan and much more. 
• To enjoy the lake there js the more crowded main road located by the lake and there’s also a street that runs along the lake bank that offers restaurants that have live music, beautiful ambience and great food options. Along the in roads there are much cheaper local food options as well called “Khaja Ghars” in the local parlance. 
• No shopping malls, or big department stores exist in Pokhara. At best you’d find superstores for your basic needs. 
• Start early to see the peaks. The weather in the mountains can change quickly, so a clear day in the morning can translate into a thunderstorm by early afternoon. 

Important travel tips:

All / most currencies except INR are exchanged and traded in Nepal. Make sure you carry USDs if traveling from India and prior to your travel.

Healthcare is poor in Nepal so eat safe, stay safe and avoid getting into any trouble health wise. 

No Duty Free available at Nepals international airport, so do not think you're missing something when you don't see it. 

Avoid road travel between places within Nepal. If you get a cheap flight fare opt for that instead. Road conditions are unpredictable and takes long hours to cover short distances. Flights also suffer delays but still isn't as bad as a road journey.