Kerala – Now I know why they call is Gods own Country
Having been 500 kms from Kerala and done quite a few quick work trips to Kerala I had never explored Kerala in all its fullest until this trip where I made a dedicated week off to visit both – the hills and coast of Kerala. And so this journey took me through the hills of Munnar and Idukki district down to the coast of Aleppey and Kovalam down south ! Here is a recount of the trip …
Munnar
The closest airport to Munnar is Kochi international airport
about 135 kms away. The Journey by road is around 4-5 hours from Kochi airport.
It’s a Good road and very scenic for the most part. The climb to munnar begins
almost 2 hours before you actually hit the town and the views are interesting in
how you start seeing Coconut ; areca and banana plantations which lead to spice
and fruit gardens and eventually give way to the tea gardens at higher
altitudes. There are also Couple of beautiful waterfalls en route on the climb.
Munnar district is just Endless hills and valleys dotted with tea plantations
across the mountain sides. Much of it are private estates operated by TATA
group under various labels and brand names.
Things to do at Munnar – stop on the roadside at a scenic
spot and take some clicks enjoy fresh air and the pure oxygen. Lot of the time
its very cloudy and foggy especially in the mornings and evenings. Take a walk
/ trek into the hill slopes and tea gardens. Many are private estates though
and may not allow you to enter or might be fenced.
Places to visit – spice gardens – there are several but be
careful of what you buy as prices can be steep and authenticity needs to be
checked ; chocolate factory – theres one on the climb to Munnar called Montana
Chocolate; tea museum TATA / Ripples ; mutapaddy lake and boating – boating is
closed on Mondays after 5 pm so plan accordingly. The town has quite a few shops to buy souvenirs
and at probably better rates. However most of the scenic hotels are located
outside the main town and in the hillsides. So its typically a 20-30 mins drive
to the town center. Some good eateries are also present in the town. Montana
hotel serves good food – both local and Indian cuisine. Here in the town you
can Buy things indigenous to this area such as tea ; chocolate ; fruits ; jams
etc
An absolute must visit is Eravikulam national park – do take
the bus safari right to the top. The Last 2 kms is trekking and a climb of
around 150 mtrs. by foot on a scenic route on the hillside. Spot the nilgiri
tahr if you are lucky and 2-3 rare birds indigenous to this area. At 2000 mtrs
ASL Views of the Anaimudi peak – the highest peak in south india and valleys
below are incredible on a clear day.
In general the climate is chilly all through the day and
moreso at evening / night so carry warm clothes.
We stayed at the Amber Dale luxury resort. Rated a 4-5 star
property; the hospitality is incredible; the location is absolutely fantastic
perched on a cliff edge overlooking the Munnar Valley and Pallivasal tea
estates. Good well decked rooms ; food is reasonable and decent etc.
Aleppey boat house
Our next stop was to the coastal town of Aleppey famous for
its houseboats, The Aleppey boat house is a unique experience to be cherished
in Kerala. Go back in time as you sail down the backwaters of aleppey and touch
the Vembanad Lake. Get a feel of village life as sleepy hamlets dot the banks
of the backwater canals and ferries are still transporting people from these
little islets in the mangroves to the mainland. There are several houseboat
companies and basically the comfort and amenities would depend on the money you
pay. But they offer a standard route and sights. However onboard cuisine ; room
size and amenities ; could differ slightly. We used JCT houseboats and it was
pretty good. I would recommend them. Try a speedboat ride ; buy fresh fish from
the banks and the boat guys will cook it for you. Aleppey town is famous for eatables like
banana chips ; toddy ; and other sweet meats from this area.
Marari Beach
Aleppey is particular doesn’t have much to see or do other
than a beach which is quite clean but can also be crowded. If you opt to stay
in Marari there are resorts with sea facing locations and have their own beach
which is obviously much more pristine and isolated. The marari coastline is
beautiful and waters are quite nice for a dip. We stayed at the CGH Earth
Marari beach resort and comes definitely recommended for its amazing location
by the sea side and the property itself is very beautiful and lavish.
Poovar and Kovalam
Kovalam and Marari are clearly amongst the most beautiful
beaches in Kerala. I’ve also heard of Varkala and Bekaal up north but having
visited these two can vouch for it. Swimming conditions can vary depending on
the tide and season but the coastline itself is very beautiful with spacious
sandy beach space. Many resorts line up on the beach front opening out to the
beach front and are obviously pricier. We stayed at the Taj green Cove resort and
it offered the best of two worlds – perched on a hill side spectacular views of
the sea and also a sea front lawns area for simply gazing into the open ocean
and the fishing boats taking off into the sea and of course the not to miss
sunset. The infinity pool is another amazing thing about this place. Other
hotels such as Leela also offer similar views.
Close to Kovalam and at a 30-40 mins drive is the stop of
Poovar backwaters. Certainly recommended, as it’s a unique experience to wade
through the backwater canals in a slow motor boat. While the Govt approved rate
are pricey, there is little or no room to negotiate. Take the 1.5 hrs package
and they could throw a total of couple of hours in the backwaters. More than
the so called “Sights” to see , I just enjoyed wading down the peaceful
backwaters lined with coconut palms ; mangroves and varieties of birds some
local and many migratory species we were told. There is a stop on a sand bank
called Golden Beach which is simply spectacular as it has the backwater canal
on one side and the ocean on the other. Standing on the middle feels like being
on a paradisiac and somewhat unearthly place. However unfortunately the beach itself was
quite dirty with glass and plastic littered and no one has cleaned it up in
forever and so also sometimes thrash can be seen floating in the canals. Its
sad – what is a absolutely marvel of nature spoilt by humans yet again as part
of irresponsible tourism.
All in all Kerala has a bit of everything for everyone – be it
mountains and cool climates to the beaches and tropical climate. Not to forget
the pilgrimage sites which are world famous though I did not do any on this particular
trip. The food is simply incredible. Hotels we ate at and I can vouch for are the
Hotel Montana (Munnar), Taste of Kerala for local cuisine (Kovalam) and some
others.
It is nature that has put Kerala on the world map tourism,
but it is man who will destroy it yet again if immediate actions aren’t taken
to keep the place clean, litter free and pollution free.
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