Riding the Thar - India’s North West frontier - Jaisalmer and beyond

Jaisalmer has the nickname golden city for a good reason. All buildings be it commercial, residential or public utilities are short stature and made of the characteristic yellow sandstone typical of this desert region. It shimmers with the blistering sun and hence reflects a golden like color. Jaisalmer will enthrall you with its old narrow cobbled roads, haphazard traffic,  the open drainage system, shops selling silverware , local textiles , handicrafts and local snacks and food items on both sides. Taking a walk down these ancient streets is an experience in itself.

A must do and something you must spend a half day on is the vast “Jaisalmer fort”. The only inhabited fort in the world  , the fort covers an area of 35 sq kms and there are close to 5000 people living within its walls , mostly descendants of those living from the time the fort city was constructed back in 11 AD. While the city has expanded outside, the old city within the fort walls remains fossilized largely , with the old cobbled stone roads, network of underground drains for sewage and rainwater , etc. Of course the effects of tourism are felt via an increase in population and number of stores selling trinkets , souvenirs and refreshments at the “Chowk” area. The Chowk area this is where you will start the tour mostly. A typical guided tour (recommended) should cost around 150-200 INR and will cover the maharajas and maharanis palace which are close to the chowk area itself , and while it looks small from the outside don’t be fooled as once you enter it’s a maze of rooms , catacombs , passages and each having its own significance and history. Hence, budget at least 2.5-3 hrs to comfortably see this portion. At the end of the tour are some silverware shops , handlooms and refreshments. Entering the fort further to see the residential areas is allowed but not necessary. If you walk down the lane from the maharani palace exit, there are quaint and beautiful roof top restaurants serving multi cuisine food along with local fare. All these restaurants run along the border of the fort wall, and hence have balconies or “havelis” offering spectacular views of the golden city down below. We tried Lakeview hotel but from there we saw another 6-7 such cafes around very similar in fare and the views. Do try get a haveli seat to enjoy spectacular views of the city while you lunch. As you exit the fort, In addition to the fort, other attractions with city or city limits are:

Gadsisar lake:

Gadsisar lake is a peaceful man made tank or lake converted now to a tourist spot with boating. Right time to visit is around dusk or an hour before when the sun is less harsh and you can enjoy the boating better. One feels like a Raja or Rani when boating around the lake along with the ducks and swans.

Bada baug

Beautiful monument which is actually a memorial for all past kings of Jaisalmer, which is a little outside the city. There are 44 chatris or umbrellas each dedicated to one of the past kings. You can spend about an hour at this place and makes for amazing pics and memories. No shops or stalls around this area

Kuldhara

Not much to see or do here, other than the ruins of a 200 year old village that was abandoned. Has an interesting story though and one can spend around 30 mins. No shops or stalls around this area. Place is a little far out from the city though.

Natmal haveli and Patwa haveli

At the heart of the city, these are Two old buildings belonging to then ministers of the royal family. These are still inhabited today and one portion is open for tourists to see the intricate wall carvings and old artefacts preserved.

Food:

Most restaurants offer a multi cuisine fare along with local food options.

A must Try for non-vegetarians is the “Lal maas” a local specialty made from mutton or upon request poultry meat. It’s eaten with rice or local chapattis made of Bhajra .

Shopping:

Sadar Bazaar and Hanuman Circle area for artefacts, silverware, textiles. Bargaining is absolutely essential for a good price. There’s also a good collection of handicraft and souvenir shops at the base near the entrance / exit of the fort area. You may get mobbed by vendors and your ability to shoo off or haggle for a good price will be put to test here.

 

Outside Jaisalmer:

A trip to the Sam sand dunes is certainly a unique experience which you won’t find elsewhere in India. The dunes here, easily 30-40 Mtrs high in some places makes for a great desert experience with activities such as dune bashing, desert safari, camel ride or race , quad biking and the more newly introduced paragliding. Typically, the base package may only include the desert safari / dune bashing in a 4x4 and the rest are add ons. Bargain for a good price but also bear in mind these are very poor people who are offering these services such as a camel ride for instance and set a decent price. Quad biking and paragliding are for those who are up to it. If nothing, just sit atop a dune and soak in the setting sun with stunning views of the sunset and the hue at dusk giving way to the perfectly clear starry night sky. There are many resorts scattered around the Sam sand dunes area and close to the highway, so do your research to check reviews and ratings, set the budget and Location  and then book accordingly. While day trips are possible from Jaisalmer, I would highly recommend spending a night at the dunes for the different experience and because it can otherwise be very hectic and tiring. We stayed at Sultan desert camp and it was quite good and very close to the dunes. Sultan offers an integrated room package inclusive of dinner and breakfast with local fare which is good, entertainment and cultural dance / music in the evening with high tea. Rooms are available in multiple categories, however for the truest experience opt for the Swiss tents. Plain and simple they give you the real experience.

Tanot temple and Longewala

Typically coupled together , makes for a amazing drive from Jaisalmer thru the vast desert terrain and between sand dunes and stray camels roaming the desert , till you hit the historic longewala - the famous battle place of 1971 where India fought Pakistan. One gets a totally patriotic feeling when interacting with the border security soldiers, seeing the war machinery and artillery around and the captured war tanks, a couple of which are preserved at the museum. There is an AV session of 15 mins which is a must do telling about the history of the 1971 battle.

Tanot temple which is a 30 minute drive skirting close to the India Pakistan border doesn’t have much more than seeing the temple in itself which has a very interesting story to it – as being intact even despite bombs exploding all around it during the indo pak battle of 1971. Of course if you are able to secure permission to visit the indo pak border, the 10 kms trip to the border can start from here.

Tip :

There’s no Uber or Ola cabs here . Bargain with auto drivers to get a good price on a package where the same person takes you to 3-4 places within the city for up to 5-6 hours. Prices can come down to maybe half to what is initially quoted - no autos use meter here

Alcohol is quite expensive in resorts and in shops.

Being mindful you are in the desert is important. Conserve water, power and don’t expect the hotel to do any different – so power cuts are common.

For visiting the indo pak border get your permission in advance from Jaisalmer north sector army HQ office. Getting permissions at tanot temple used to be possible earlier but out of question now.

Being in Jaisalmer, you could actually pass for being anywhere in say the Middle East or sub sahara. With golden colored edifices dotting the city, the fort rising majestically behind it all and surrounded by the harsh desert landscape and dunes across the city perimeter - it’s a different world altogether. Given harsh weather conditions you may want to consider visiting in weather friendlier months like November to February as March to June is extremely hot and harsh. Carry adequate water at all times to stay hydrated especially during the day and carry some wooden clothes for night when the temperature can dip. Unfortunately, this city isn’t the most visited amongst tourists perhaps because of its far flung location making connectivity a little harder, poorer infrastructure and harsh weather conditions.