The Cambodian Diaries

We flew into Cambodia from Thailand (BKK) by Thai Airways. It was only a 1 hour or so flight . Landing at Pnomh Penh airport was like one of the most beautiful things ever , the last leg takes you along the Thonle Sap river and docks till you reach the airport ! Quaint airport, probably the size of perhaps a regional airport in India (from where I come), this really small international airport does however ensure you can get from aircraft to exit in 10-15 minutes tops. (yes, with luggage and immigration included). Don’t expect much in terms of duty free and shopping. There’s just one duty free shop at arrival and one at departures. There are a couple of currency exchange and SIM card telecom shops , but for the former as usual its perhaps best to get into the city. Be wary of the fact however, that in Cambodia the US Dollar is ubiquitous and even your Tuk Tuk driver will accept and charge you by the USD. While Cambodia is ultra notorious for its brutal Khmer Regime , its this that has left a legacy on the country in terms of creating tourist attractions such as the Genocide museum , Killing Fields, etc. On the other hand, the various Hindu dynasties such as the Chakra dynasty left the country with massive temples and temple complexes like those at Angkor. This diary would take you through my travels of Cambodia, a small country thats’ sandwhiched between Thailand , Laos and Vietnam and is rich in culture, history and caught somewhere in between tradition and modernization. 

Pnomh Penh - Country Capital 

Night Market : 

The night market is one of the top attractions in Pnomh Penh. Located along the Tonle Saap river on the Sisawath quay its Basically a flea market, expect anything from trinkets to paintings to local apparel. Don’t expect branded stuff , lots of duplicates so beware and do bargain a lot. All vendors charge by the Dollar , so you can bargain anywhere between 1 to 5 dollars below the quoted price depending on what you’re buying. There is a open air food court within the premises, but for the not so adventurous , there are a few midsize cafe’s outside on the road by the quay ranging from Italian to local Khmer cuisine. Rates may be higher though considerably but they also serve alcohol here. Do not leave without trying Amok (Chicken or fish) , a local popular dish and of course the satay sticks. 

Central Market:

This is the central main marketplace in Pnomh Penh with stuff ranging from fish and seafood to duplicate Guess watches , bose speakers and tommy hilfiger tees. I am not so sure about rates of supplies and groceries but I can tell you that the electronics , apparel , trinkets and souvenir items are cheap as it can get. However, beware of fakes and duplicates and of course bargaining here is key for a good deal. Its really crowded with both locals and tourists alike , so exert public place caution as always. There are a few restaurants around the market area with cuisines ranging from oriental to local and indian to european cafes. We tried a chinese place which had Dimsum specialities. There are no eateries inside the market area. 

Mekong River Cruise:

Comes totally recommended. Do try one of the river cruises by evening. Its quite worth it. There are the earlier ones (Sunset) and post Sundown dinner cruises. The latter of course cost more as in usually includes drinks and dinner. You could preorder one from your hotel desk with a tour operator or if adventurous go onto the ferry jetty (at Preah Sisowath Quay) by the riverside where all the boats dock and bargain for a good price at the site. Rates can vary by the tour operator or boat and what they offer. The cruise takes 1.5 hours and takes you down the Mekong , offering amazing views of the city from the river, especially after sunset when all the buildings and the riverside promenade come to light. They would also show you the floating village, although we were more saddened than impressed seeing it considering what we witnessed. Other than that, the sights are beautiful , take a top deck if possible for better views. 

Khmer Rouge Tourist Attractions:

Genocide Museum and Prison S21

An Absolute MUST DO in Pnomh Penh. It would definitely expose you to some disturbing facts of the Khmer Rouge regime and its atrocious acts of inhumanity , but on a larger level one would appreciate how the country has emerged from that kind of a political and civil situation to where it is today. You can opt for the guided tour (Which is a very unique self guided tour with headphones) or non audio. I’d say for the extra 3 USD , take the guided tour.

Killing Fields: (Choung Ek) 

The killing fields which was one of such mass murder sites in Cambodia during the Pol Pot regime has become a tourist attraction. Another MUST DO , it is Located around 15 kms from the city, its around a 30 minute ride by Tuk Tuk. One needs to maintain solidarity and respect in the premises which means maintaining silence, dressing modestly, and avoid eating and drinking while seeing the place. One would be witness to the brutalities and atrocities of the Khmer Rouge regime while seeing around the premises. It has been beautifully maintained by the government and a Skull and Bones monument erected in honor of the people who died here. Be warned though, it can get a bit intense at times. Here also, tours are available with or without audio.

Royal Palace:

The royal palace is definitely a must do and highly recommended when in Pnomh Penh. Its not uncommon for cities in this part of the world to have a royal palace given that many countries were and continue to be monarchies. However, I’d think there is something unique in every one of them, and this one is a must see. The silver Pagoda in the premises and the stupa mounted atop the hill within the complex are the most beautiful in my opinion. There is also a model of the Angkor Was temple complex within the palace grounds. The actual palace itself is cordoned off for security reasons, but the temples , stupas and museums / artifact showcases within the complex are open for tourists. Its important to dress modestly , maintain silence and order when visiting the royal palace and avoid taking pictures within any of the temples or stupas. Its a sign of disrespect. Whether you are Visiting to scurry around and take pics as part of a group tour, or simply visit individually and buy a ticket at the gate , sit at a peaceful spot and meditate. You won’t regret a visit to the royal palace. Very close to the Royal palace and a 10 mins walk away is the National Museum which I did not visit for lack of time, but i believe its worth while and in the evenings there are cultural programs spanning local Cambodian song , dance, and folklore. 

Siem Reap

So something really unfortunate happened due to which my visit to Siem Reap was cut short from 1 day to perhaps a couple of hours at best. This was due to a flight cancellation and postponement. However, even though i had a couple of hours i thought let me try to get to the temples either which way ! I made my way from Siem Reap airport to the temple site only to realize that I need to pay a day pass either which was which was around 40 USD (a three day pass costs around 70 USD) and from what I’ve heard the whole complex is so huge that exploring it in full could take 2-3 days depending on your level of exploration and interest. Since it didn’t make sense for me to take a day pass for just an hour or so, I sought other options and learnt of a Hot Air Balloon option that takes you high up in the air from where you can get an aerial view of the temples. Hesitant at first partly due to my fear of heights, i thought something better than none and took it. its a 15 USD fee per person but its honestly something I’d never forget. The balloon was much more than I could have imagined or thought. It takes one about 100 or so mtrs up and from where you can get an aerial view of both, the Angkor and the Bayon Temple complexes. You spend only 10 minutes but its exhilarating and use the time well to take aerial pics of the site. The balloon is safe for kids too. (They charge half fare). I would recommend before going ask or check what to see from up there cos there is only limited time. Its an experience you won’t forget ! Of course , there is nothing like actually entering the temple complex and checking it out, but , if hard pressed for time or on short transit this is a great way to experience the temple sights. 

You can get to Siem Reap from Pnomh Penh via road or Air. Air tickets are really cheap , but operated by local airlines and sometimes this results in postponement or cancellation of flights so stay alert for these things.

Partying and Pubbing :

For this i’d certainly think the best option in town is Pub Street. From the most happening pubs, to clubs its all happening on Pub Street in Daun Penh. Another place to party is on the streets close to the night market that has a few pubs. A few of these pubs have live music in the evenings / nights. Cuisine options range from local to continental. If not in a mood to party out, buy and carry in to your hotel some beer and alcohol available freely and cheap in super marts that are open late or some 24 hrs. We stayed on a street adjacent to Pub Street and though a 5 mins walk away it was pretty quiet and peaceful. 

Notes and Tips:

Beware of pick pockets and scamsters / touts especially in crowded areas. 

Traffic in Cambodia is chaotic (not so much as in India but its almost there). If using a self ride bike or car take care when on the road. Use of helmet or seat belt is compulsory , and its a left hand drive system.

Travel in tuk tuk wherever possible, its cheap and bargaining is possible. If going to book a tour , avoid booking online , Rates are exorbitant. Get to your hotel desk and ask for the pamphlets of local tour operators where you’d find rates that are half or less than online for a similar tour. Btw, these guys even go to the airport for as less as 6 USD one way. A tuk tuk can easily house 4 people with some baggage too. 

If visiting an attraction site, ask your Tuk Tuk to wait and pay him for return the same rate as you’ve negotiated for the onward travel. They usually do not charge waiting charges.

Carry small change in Dollars everywhere as change can become a problem otherwise. (like 1 or 5 dollar bills) 

Staying in a central part of town like Doun Penh can be advantageous since everything like the markets and attractions are close and one could even walk. However , hotels may be smaller and at the same time more expensive. 

Heat can be brutal here. Stay hydrated here at all times, carry water with you . Have a roadside coconut or cool juice to stay hydrated.

Pnomh Penh is small , and attractions aren’t too far from each other. You could actually walk around with a map and find your way quickly and easily if you stay somewhere around the City market area

Be polite to people around, not just because its good mannered but also because situations can escalate quickly here. You don’t want to be caught in that kind of a situation.

Food:

Lots of authentic Khmer and Chinese cuisine is available all throughout the city. Additionally , there are other options available too though a little more limited such as Indian, Korean, Japanese and continental fare. If up for it, try the roadside Satay sticks and fried chicken, its amazing !

Cambodia has a long way to develop into a full fledged tourist destination , however they are getting there certainly as a country and seem committed to it since its one of their major industries. Its cheap overall to holiday but safety and caution needs to be exerted especially if traveling with family and kids.