A trip down Myanmar Lane

A trip down Myanmar Lane 
Landing into Yangon International airport, its actually tough to see the city from there as the airport is located on  a corner of the city. It takes about 30 mins drive to actually get to the where the actual city perimeter starts , but again I'm sure this is expanding every week or month.
Yangon international is pretty easy to navigate, a modern look and feel airport with disembarkation to exit possible in under 15 mins (yes, including immigration, luggage, customs etc.)

Yangon's weather is very humid so be prepared for some sweating. Carry hydration with you at all times.  Nights are cooler but the humidity persists. Yangon Not a very easy city to navigate in terms of public transport. Cabs are rarely available on flagging and if they stop may hesitate to go to your destination. Buses are overcrowded and may be uncomfortable. (its actually pretty similar to what goes on in India or Bangladesh for that matter). The option that saved me personally was Grab Taxi app. It's Very reliable, fixed fares so no haggling and definite guaranteed drop. The wait times are also minimal and the drivers are very polite. So install Grab, it'll really come in handy all through Myanmar.
Touring - In terms of tours , book your city tours in advance or be prepared to pay a premium. Since Burma is still picking up as a tourist place there aren't many group tours happening on a daily basis. If you do not book your group tour in advance chances are you'll have to land up going alone on a individual basis which is expensive. I was caught in this situation and then had to haggle and bargain to get a decent rate. Hotels do not have tour desks , usually only call taxis. So book in advance if possible and reserve your seat and fare.  A typical Yangon city tour will almost always include the world famous majestic Swedagon Pagoda. The pagoda is located at the heart of the city and is visible from almost any corner. The true extent , beauty and majestic nature of the pagoda is only visible when inside the property so do not miss this for sure. Its basically a sea of pagodas, temples, statues, and other religious artefacts within the compound. It is not really only a pagoda per-se
but a collection of various temples , pagodas and other religious artifacts within the complex. A guide would help in terms of understanding the significance of each of the edifices and structures. Budget at least 2 hours if you'd really like to see the property in full.
Tip : going at the time around dusk is the most beautiful as you can witness the lights come on and how the entire complex transitions in its glory with the lights. budget MMK 10000 as entrance fees for foreigners. Eating / drinking within the temple complex isn't allowed. Visit around to see the
photo museum , smaller pagodas and temples and other structures within the complex. The gold pagoda, the mung bell are worth a visit. Other stuff to do in Yangon would include a Visit the independence grounds and monument and take clicks of the surrounding colonial structures that are well preserved and still in use today for government offices and other official purposes. It would remind one of being in any eastern European city, such as Bucharest or Sofia. Sule Pagoda is worth a visit but I would recommend rather going to Chau TakChi temple reclining Buddha temple which houses the second largest reclining Buddha statue in the world (the first also being in Myanmar i am told). The structure is 70 mtrs long and 16 mtrs high. Last i would recommend ending your day at the Kandawgyi park and lake, and visit the Karaweik Palace. There is a floating restaurant in the lake
which serves a buffet comprising continental and local delicacies, along with a cultural show of song and dance. It is a unique experience I would recommend showcasing Myanmar food and culture. So taking out more time at the top / big three and perhaps lesser time at strand road, Sule pagoda , and the colonial buildings would be a day well spent.
Food - Street food available on most by-lanes of Strand Road (which is the most popular road I would think in Yangon) Most pubs / eateries / happening stuff is on strand road. The bye lanes is where the smaller joints and road side stalls are available for the local fare like satay, fried snacks , Soups and Burmese Salads which are a staple part of  Burmese cuisine. In this area around 19th to 23rd street there are also multi cuisine restaurant options such as grills, BBQ, Japanese , Chinese etc.
People in general are very polite and ready to help , however language is a serious barrier. Some people wont  speak even poor English so it really helps to use sign language , write down stuff or most helpful learn the basic helpful phrases in Burmese which you can use to communicate.
Traffic can be bad in the evenings and morning rush hour. Plan your trips and appointments accordingly.
Currency - Money changers and ATMS are available all thru the city. There isnt too much of a rate difference between hotels and money changers in the city. Airport rates are higher as always so change less at the airport and most of it in the city. The USD is accepted in hotels , larger
commercial establishments but the general currency of trade is the Myanmar Khyat
Yangon City tour:


Yangon to Mandalay: Options to travel are flight , road (private taxi , or a bus). I took the bus and it was a very comfortable 8 hour journey. The roads are pretty decent , and the service was good. Budget in the extrafew dollars it may take to get a VIP bus, which is very comfortable,
organised and perhaps safer. Khaing Mandalay runs Scania buses between Yangon and Mandalay. It should cost anywhere between 25-35 USD.



Mandalay : City of Pagodas , Monastries and a blend of authentic and modern culture
Mandalay is a very exciting city , especially for culture buffs and nature lovers. Unlike Yangon, it isn't so metropolis-ed and still has a small town feel compared to the former. This means, more green spaces, surrounded by nature, local restaurants, and a general local cultural feel.
More importantly, it is also strategically located in close proximity to other tourist areas such as Bagan, Innwa, Hsipaw, Shan State , Hpa-An the latter two being less frequented by tourists though. That said, there is a host of things to do and see for a minimum of 2 days in Mandalay. I had budgeted only one day as I was on transit and i can say was a bit disappointed that I couldn't catch a couple of things such as Inwa Ancient city, and a couple of famous monasteries for want of time so an additional day would have helped cover this. I did manage to squeeze in quite a bit for a day thanks to a very helpful taxi driver who I struck a good deal for 8 hours sightseeing. Of course the sites aren't all that far away from each other. The bonus was he was very expressive, decent in English and was able to do some basic explaining of each of the sites but moreover I learnt about Myanmar Politics, culture, language etc from him whilst we were on the drive.
The best part- he took me to a really fantastic (and super cheap) local Myanmar cuisine restaurant for lunch. The place had a casual outdoor vibe and some delicious food with good service. The rates weren't all that bad either. (paid roughly USD 5 for 3 full blown non vegetarian dishes).
Things to see in Myanmar (in order of priority based on how good it was:)
Royal Mandalay Palace - a must do ... a sprawling pre-colonial time palace of the Royal Myanmar family that was largely destroyed or occupied later by the British during the colonialism. The palace comprises of various smaller structures dispersed within the complex and while it appears random,
its interesting that each of them had a meaning or a purpose to it. (This is explained in a map or you can buy a book that explains it all, available at the museum within). The museum is also something you must see before you leave the palace to see some ancient artifacts, tools, apparel, etc. used in Myanmar tradition Budget an hour to see the palace. Extrance is MMK10,000 (about USD 7).
Adjascent to the palace (albeit a separate entrance) is the world famous wood monastery , an entire structure made only of teak wood. It is an architectural marvel and I hear the only one of its kind. It was build during the reign of the last kind. It is unique in the sense that it is not only a building made entirely of wood, but has these magnificent carvings explaining the significant events in Buddhism (or Jatakas), and intricately carved pillars and ceilings, all of pure teak wood. A must do. The entrance fee is included in that of the Palace. You would need at least 45 mins to see this place well.
Ubein Bridge - I must say I was a little disappointed , as Ubein bridge albeit beautiful and definitely unique (in that its the worlds second longest wooden bridge), it has some drawbacks which you need to keep in mind when you visit which may help make your trip less stressful.
1. Go early - traffic really picks up between 4 to 5 pm on that route. Its about 15 kms south of the city, and my taxi driver told me to go by 4 pm. I thought that was unnecessarily early but I do not regret it one bit. The sunset is at around 5 pm onward where you get the most beautiful views of the bridge , lake and of course the sunset itself in the backdrop. If you're lucky you might catch farmers tilling their fields with bullock carts and canoes plying tourists in the lake to catch a view
of the sunset. it makes for a stunning picture / photo. However if you delay beyond 4 pm , chances are you'll get caught in traffic and might not make the place in time. Do not go earlier too, as it is
scorching and extremely humid. There are lots of shops selling small eats , snacks, fruits on either pier as well as on the bridge. It is this, that I had a problem with. People buy stuff to eat and then throw the wrapper , waste food , or bottle into the lake thereby adorning the sides of the bridge with litter. This was unfortunate and it seems no ones really interested to clean it up too. If nothing is done soon, this place will turn into a junkyard and its beauty will be lost forever. Souvenir shops available in plenty at the entrance side pier. There isn't much on the opposite pier. A walk along the bridge and back should take about an hour or so (its 1 km each way).
Other things to do : Optional Id say: KawthuGyi Pagoda (amazing Pagoda and shrine which has 729 stupas each with an inscription from the sacred book in Buddhism.Its also said to be thus the worlds largest book. The magnificently white stupas look amazing under the glare of the sun and so does the golden color from the pagoda.
This might take upto 45 mins in full. Entrance is free. Adjoining this there is another abandoned monastry (it was called Kwaing Monastry). I dont know how or why I reached there
but I took rest in the main hall for 10 mins and admired the brilliant intricate teak roofing.
Mahamun Pagoda : More of a religious site than a tourist one , hence didnt see too many tourists. I didnt enter the temple area per se , but only visitied the souveniour market along the entrance corrider where you get decent souveniours and local crafts. Entrance is 5000 MMK. My taxi driver told me its the most holy image of the Buddha by locals revering it for granting wishes for the most part.
Mandalay Hill - Honestly not much other than a shrine on the top and a good view of the city from atop the hill. Its quite hot up there, there isn't much to do and not recommended if travelling with elderly or kids as there is a lot of walking up and down stairs to see it entirely. (There is a escalator though)

I didn't visit the commercial areas of Mandalay so cant comment . Only shopped at the marketplaces at all of the tourist sites. The one at U-Bein bridge is pretty big and boasts a decent choice.

My next day took me along a very interesting boat ride from Mandalay to Bagan. Though the road is certainly a quicker option, there is definitely some uniqueness and unforgettable experience in taking the boat down the Irrawaddy river. The journey time is 10-11 hrs (as opposed to 6 hrs by road), but
the experience of sailing down the Irrawaddy with the beautiful sights on both banks of the river, the sway of the boat, and the wind hitting you is something irreplaceable than what I hear is a dusty, bumpy and non-sightful journey by road. MGRG runs ferries on this route and provide excellent
service in terms of pick and drop on both ends, meals (tea / lunch and high tea) and a pit stop for sightseeing on the way (typically Yandabo pottery village).
Their service and staff are also polite and always ready to help. Make sure these are included in your ticket, unless you opt otherwise. The beauty of this boat ride I guess is mostly in the fact that its like a time lapse. You can pretty much pan it out how you'd like on the boat
Sun-bathe on the roof deck, catch a book, watch a movie, or simply have a peaceful nap in the Air conditioned cabin beneath. All while you admire the golden tipped stupas all along the way (i must have counted at least a 100 of them as we went along and at some point lost count)
Keep your camera in handy for some clicks.

Bagan
Bagan , located in the plains of Myanmar (between Mandalay and the coastal areas of Mrauk-U) is an ancient historical city dating back 1500-2000 years . I'm guessing due to its fertile soil and high potential for agriculture and richness in natural resources like minerals and stone made Bagan a hot ground for any kingdom or king to conquer. This meant that every king who laid eyes or foot on Bagan constructed a temple . Coupled with the piety of the then kings and the fact that the people were pagans (Worshipers of nature) , this meant the total tally of temples around the Bagan area went to 2000 plus .
Bagan is truly an Alice in wonderland kind of situation for a history buff and temple explorer. The beauty of the place doesn't lie in the "top 10 temples to see" per say Lonely planet or other travel guides but instead in locating isolated temples in the countryside as you drive along in your e-scooter and stopping for some exploration, it lies in the spectacular sunrise and sunset you get to witness atop higher ground with a view of the hundred of temple peaks and plains / hills in the backdrop, and it lies in the food , the people , the culture of the place.
Tips: Take the e-scooter , its the best way to get around. You need to be map savvy to get around and locate the to-visit spots. but you can also stop around at any time you see a beautiful temple by the roadside or a little further into the in-lanes. While Old Bagan has a marketplace, there are mini marketplaces set up almost outside every one of the famous temples such as ... You will get everything from souvenirs, to trinkets to maybe even some snacks or cool drinks. The old Bagan area however has some nice restaurants to savor the local as well as Continental cuisine.
"The Moon" comes recommended on lonely planet and I visited there and had some good food. Lots of vegetarian and vegan options available.
If you have only day do a mix of the famous and the offbeat temples for a best of both worlds.
Due to my time limitation , I had only one day at Bagan. most people budget at least 2-3 days because there is a lot to see around especially if you have the explorer
bug in you. But if you have one day, I hope my tips will be helpful to help you make the most of it, as it did mine

1. Choose a combination of the taxi and the e-scooter. The taxi can be used for all the "Hot Spots" and can be easily completed in 4-5 hours. The advantage is that the taxi will pointedly take you to those sites. Leaving early before 9 am (after an early breakfast) would help you beat both, the crowds and the heat. The plains can be very hot especially in the afternoon time between 1-3 pm. I observed that the temples start getting crowded after 11 am. So time your visit accordingly. Typical temples to do are Ananda Paya, Htilominlo Paya, Dhammayagi Paya, Shwesandaw stupa and Shweizigon pagoda. If you have some time throw in the Bagan Archelogical museum. (Note that is closed on Sundays though). I would recommend keeping the other temples for the evening along with the adhoc ones you'd like to explore. Get some lunch around the Old Bagan area, some rest in the afternoon heat and then head out exploring on your e-scooter . Bupaya , Nanpaya located on the River bank make for a great evening sightseeing, (when the boats also start plying out to the river for the river sightseeing trips). Also throw in Gawdawlin Paya located in between the Bupaya and NanPaya temples. Its the second highest pagoda in the Bagan area. The highest pagoda in the Baganarea is Dhammayagi standing at over 65 mtrs in height. The Dhammayagi and Sulamani payas are located on a slightly elevated ground and make for a great spot to get an aerial view of the plains and all the stupas and pagodas dotting the plains. A couple of sightseeing viewing points are located in this area for the sunset views (which are absolutely stunning by the way). However, these spots tend to get very crowded with tourists thronging so riding around might also find you a equally good spot that is also isolated from the crowds.
2.Avoid the marketplaces. Every temple (at least the more famous ones) have pretty a much a market place outside where you can shop for all sorts of souvenours, crafts, artifacts etc. Some items are banned from being taken outside of Myanmar so be careful of what you purchase and if its' legal. (E.g. Ivory, Teak, elephant skin cosmetic products are banned). For eats, catch some lunch or snacks around the Old bagan area that has numerous restaurants. Or you can indulge in some street food outside some of the temples themselves. There was some pretty good satay and bbq vendors outside and around Bu Paya. Bargaining and haggling really helps get a good price.
3. Beware of Touts and sticky vendors: Touts may try to sway you into getting a good bargain for a bike, a good viewpoint , a souvenior shop or anything that might make them a good buck. I would say avoid these guys cos it can be a safety hazard. Moreover , with a guide in hand and lots of documentation avilable online on Bagan you don't need services from touts. Stick to an authorised travel agent , travel desk or your hotel is probably still your best and safest bet with hiring an E-Bike or a taxi.
4. Ballooing over Bagan : I didnt do this but a few friends I was travelling with did so. Its of course a pretty amazing experience, viewing all the hundreds or thousands of Pagodas from the top
200 mtrs in the air. However, it does cost a fortune and can set you back 3-400 USD. So if you have that money to spare, I'd say do it for sure.
5. The entire Bagan area is an Archelogical zone and is being contended to be included in UNESCO world heritage site list. I was shocked to learn it still isn't and one of the reasons is that the overall area maintenance hasn't been good enough by the government. From real estate encroachments in to the zone, to garbage management to waste and other issues, it doesn't have that status yet. So we can do our bit as tourists. While you can pretty much visit any temple you'd like to (just stop on the side
of a road or in road where you see something interesting and stop for some beautiful clicks), be responsible in terms of not littering, destroying any of the sites, frescoes, murals etc. There is hardly any security which is also a bad thing for such a heritage site. Of course, having an additional day or maybe even two is the most preferred as Bagan is really very vast with a lot to see and do. Also throw in Mount Popa , Salay and other sites around Bagan and you have a whole week worth of exciting stuff to happen.

Other things to do in Myanmar that are apparently noteworthy
1. Go down south to the beaches of Ngapali and Minse. World class beaches , and yet quite isolated and virgin. Not suitable for diving though.
2. Inle Lake / Kalaw trek : Trek from Kalaw to Inle lake which takes 2-3 days depending on weather conditions. Its about 50-60 kms through paddy fields, dense jungles and
forests. The last 8-10 kms is a descent down the shan state hills toward the lake. Its heaven on earth and absolutely a once in a lifetime opportunity.
Other options include a bus or a flight directly to Heho Airport which is around 40 kms from Inle Lake.
3. Visit the towns of Salay and mount Popa which is a day trip from bagan. There are numerous resorts sprung up in the Mount Popa area. I've heard mixed reviews with
some saying its a load of thrash while others commending the sheer beauty of Mount Popa and calling it a "meditation Retreat"
4. Visit other historic towns such as Salay and Mrauk-U whch resemble (though not nearly as large) as Bagan.

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General Travel Tips:
People are very helpful and polite so a smile and pleasantries will go a long way in helping you especially with information. Tips are not expected but will go a long way in expressing your gratitude for a service
Junction city mall is a mega mall located in the heart of the city. Pretty much a one stop shop for any kind of shopping (be it apparel , local to branded, supplies, souvenirs, etc). However prices are generally higher, so a cheaper option is the adjoining old market called Bogyoke Market. (earlier known as "Scotts Market"). However , note that the market is closed on Public holidays and Mondays. (I happened to visit on a public holiday) .
It's famous for its souvenirs I hear. Junction city mall also has a decent food court with lots of local options of food. There are also lots of regional options such as Thai, Japanese and Korean. If you're up for it, I would certainly recommend trying street available in plenty along the side roads and streets angled along Strand Road. Satay , fried snacks (tempura), soup and salads are typical street food fare. 19th to 23rd street have a bunch of restaurants and some pubs too.
Very unlike its neighbor, Thiland (bangkok), Nightlife in Yangon seems quite restricted and most places shut shop by 10-11 pm.